A raglan sleeved, knit in the round, bottom up garment with a shawl collar in three colors of yarn that were none of them enough for a garment. Length from neck to hem: 65 cm.
Armpit to armpit (laid flat and closed): M = 46 cm. (model is 5’11” and is wearing a M)
Sizes: S, M, L (91, 96, 101) cm bust circumference. I wish I could offer more sizes, but I’m a new designer and I’m keeping it simple this time)
Debbie Bliss Pure Cashmere worsted
Yarn A – 9 (10,11) skeins Silver (441, 490, 539 yards)
Yarn B – 7.5 skeins Taupe (376 yards)
Yarn C – 9 (10,11) skeins Cream (441, 490, 539 yards)
Gauge: 14 st and 23 rows in striped stockinette.
Important! Knit a swatch with your yarn and needles and check guage. Adjust needle size up or down to achieve guage as set.
5 or 5.5 mm 32-inch circular needles; I use Addi Turbos. You will need a long circ when you come to joining the sleeves.
4 stitch markers, yarn needle, 2 big pretty buttons.
Stripe Pattern Notes
Striping for bottom up body: alternating colors for each row.
Row 1: RS, knit A.
Row 2: (push work back to other end of circular needle) RS, knit B
Row 3: WS,Purl A
Row 4: (push work back to other end of circular needle) WS, purl B.
This might look odd, but because it’s one row per stripe, and you don’t want to be cutting your yarn with every stripe, it works out quite well this way.
Striping for top-down part of sleeve (in the round):
Row 1: knit A (upper) or C (lower arm)
Row 2: knit B
Edging: The edges of this garment are designed to curl. If you don’t want curling on the bottom and sleeve edges, I suggest knitting a short section (maybe 1/2 or 1″) of garter stitch or a rib.
Sleeves: I knit the sleeves in two directions, so you can influence the length of the sleeves more exactly.
Sleeve measurements: I have skinny arms, so if you’re more normal-sized, measure your arm circumference and cast on the sleeve stitches for a bigger size. Even better, measure the circumference of your arm at the armscye and knit the required number of stitches for the guage you’re getting.
I knit the shawl collar separately, since I generally have a loose tension and the seamless garment can use the structure.
BO bind off
CO cast on
K2tog decrease one stitch by knitting two stitches together
PM place marker
RS right side, or outside of garment
ssk decrease one stitch by slipping two stitches from left to right needle one at a time as if to knit, then slip both stitches back to the left needle at the same time; knit the two together and transfer to right needle as usual.
WS wrong side, or inside of garment
SDLL (Standard decrease left leaning): 3 stitches before marker, ssk (slip one stitch knitways, k1, pass slipped stitch over), k 1, slip marker
SDRL (Standard decrease right leaning): slip marker, k 1, K2Tog.
M1 (make one) use either: a) with right needle, lift bar between the stitches, place bar on left needle and knit into the back of the stitch. OR b) knit into the front and back of the same stitch Kfb
With circular needle 5 or 5.5 mm, CO 31 (33, 35) stitches, place marker, CO 63 (65, 67) place marker, CO 31 (33,35) . Total 125 (131, 137) sts. Knit in the stripe pattern for 10 cm.
Waist decreases: SDLL before first marker, SDRL after first marker, then SDLL, SDRL before and after second marker.
Knit another 10 cm.
Repeat waist decreases 4 more times at every 4th row, reducing by 20 sts overall, resulting in 105 (111, 117) stitches.
Knit straight until your jacket measures 35 cm (or more or less) from the hem (here is a place to lengthen or shorten your garment) and then start waist increase.
Knit to 3 st stitches before marker: M1, k 1, slip marker, k1, M1, and once more when you come to the second marker.
Repeat waist increases 2 more times at every 4th row, increasing by 2 stitches for every increase row. .
Stripe color change: At just below your bustline 43 (45, 47) cm from hem), exchange color B for C. Knit until garment measures 48 (50, 52 ) cm from hem. (Here is another place to lengthen or shorten garment).
Sleeves: Provisional CO ( I use a crochet cast-on) 36(40,44) stitches or the number of stitches you need to fit your upper arm according to your guage at the first stitch marker with the yarn color you’re using at that moment, add new stitchmarker at the end.
Repeat the sequence at next stitchmarker. (Make sure you cast on more or less stitches if your arm circumference is different from standard.)
Knit 4 rounds in stripe pattern. Start raglan decreases:
Every second row SDLL, SDRL at every stitch marker (4 times)
Make raglan decrease 15 times on every second row. If your decrease happens on a purl row, make sure to lean the decreases the right way, ie towards the stitch marker.
At the same time:
Start neck decrease in same row as second raglan decrease. K 6, place marker SDRL, at left edge, SDLL at 8 stitches before edge with edge, place marker at 6 stitches from end of row. Repeat every other row.
When the raglan shaping reaches 18 (19, 20 cm) (you have no front stitches left) cast off all stitches.
Pick up the stitches from the provisional cast on, discard previous stitch markers, add one marker to mark the beginning of your round. Continue with magic loop, short length circular needle or dpns. Use Stripe pattern 2 and knit sleeves in desired length, decreasing (2 stitches every 5 cm) 2 (4,6) times at stitch marker, ending up with 36 stitches.
The jog in the seam will be hidden by your arms, but of course you could try a jogless stripe.( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GshD9_qlUfE, last 2 minutes)
Color change: At some point at your own discretion (in my example, just above the elbow), exchange B for A and knit in A and C throughout.
My sleeves were 65 cm long (I have a bare-wrist trauma from a long-armed childhood) and reach to my knuckles. Pick your own length, but I like them warm and snuggly like that.
Cast on 26 stitches in B, and with a new ball, another 26 with the same color yarn. Knit both at the same time. Stripe in B and C throughout.
Count the exact amount of rows you’ve used for the body. Match that, and then add 10 more cm. Connect both halves with Kitchener stitch.
Sew on Shawl collar to body, with the purl side as RS, matching rows exactly up until the neck. Tighten up underarms.
Crochet a 5 cm loop ( or less, depending on the size of your button) at waist, and at just under your bustline, on the inside of the garment at the collar/body seam.. Attach button on the seam between collar and body. The collar will curl away on its own so button and loop can join…
Soak, block lightly if you wish, and enjoy!